Walk Description

As this was our first visit to Teesdale, Steve and I had arranged to meet up with Gary and Sheena about 13:30 at Bowlees carpark, for a guided tour to Low Force and High Force.  According to Wainwright, High Force is "a spectacle all should see."  These waterfalls are definitely worth a visit, along with the smaller Summerhill Force and Bleabeck Force.  High Force, England's biggest waterfall, is where the River Tees plunges 20 metres over a dolerite cliff.  Low Force is less dramatic as the drop is much less, but it is still an attractive rugged cascade.  Low Force often adorned by experienced canoeists enjoying the adrenalin thrills from navigating the rapids and cascades on the River Tees below High Force.

We took the scenic route from Barrow to Teesdale and stopped to visit the Coop Karnel Hole (otherwise known as the Devil's Mustard Pot or Mill) in Stenkrith park just south of Kirkby Stephen  The swift current in the River Eden has eroded fantastic rock formations and potholes in the hard brockram rock, a conglomerate of limestone fragments within sandstone. This is part of The Angel's Drainpipe, a partially collapsed cave system on the River Eden, which has formed a dramatic gorge with natural arches. The water moving within the caves and gorges produces an incessant roar. In 2002 the Millenium Bridge was built, this allows vistors a safe bird's eye view of the gorge, instead of dodging the traffic on the B6259's narrow road bridge.

From here we went to Brough, where we just had to visit the remains of Brough Castle.  This is one of the many castles owned by the Clifford family.  We visted another one of their castles, Pendragon Castle, on our drive home along the Mallerstang.  On a good day Brough Castle has extensive views of the North Pennines.  Unfortunately for us, the low cloud there were no views for us today.  After spending some time exploring the ruins we went back to the car and continued our journey through Brough and along the B6276 fell road to Middleton.  This was a completely new area for me and after the recent snowfalls, it was with some trepidation that I started driving towards the highest point of the Pennine crossing between Iron Band in the south and Ley Seat to the north.  Although we could see the remains of deep snow drifts, the road was clear and we made it to Middleton-in-Teesdale without any problems. 

 
We then drove up Teesdale to the Bowlee carpark.   As we were early, we decided to have a look at the Vistors' Centre, it was closed!  As we were to later discover Teesdale doesn't officially open to visitors until much later in then year.  We retraced our steps and walked upstream along Flushiemere Beck to Summergill Force.  The beck has eroded the rock behind the waterfall and formed Gibson Cave.  We carefully climbed the small wall at the end of the path and went to see the view through the waterfall.  It was then time to head back to the carpark and meet up with Gary and Sheena.  It wasn't long before they arrived with the instantly recognisable Tim.  We left the carpark and joined the path to Low Force. 
This is a very popular section of the River Tees and route finding present no problems at all. However I quickly saw what might have been an immense obstacle for me.  I am not over fond of heights and do not like suspension bridges and here I was at the start of the walk faced with crossing the Wynch Bridge.  This is the site of the oldest suspension bridge in Europe, the orignal bridge was built in 1704.  Although the River Tees seemed a long way below the bridge, if you lie down on the brigde when the river is in flood you can touch the water.  (You won't catch me doing that!) I managed to cross the bridge and with a great sigh of relief stood still and relaxed for a few minutes before moving on to look at Low Force.

   
We now continued along the Pennine Way towards High Force, turning every now and again to take in the new views.  We could see the great white gash of the Coldberry Gutter standing nout on then horizon near Monk's Moor.  It didn't take long to reach the viewing point for High Force.  This is just a clearing in the juniper on the edge of the cliff above the Tees gorge,  High Force is impressive, although we were informed that it wasn't at its best as the river was empty.  Wainwright said that its waters "fall without grace, in a furious rage.  It is a spectacle that all should see."  I made sure that I stayed a respectful distance away from the edge of the cliff as I admired the waterfall.
We then followed the quieter waters up river towards Bleabeck Force.  Here we were confronted with the incongruity of an ugly quarry on the north bank of the river and the beautiful, delicate grace of Bleabeck Force. We spent a while exploring the waterfall and trying to find its best place to photograph it.  All too soon it was time to retrace our steps back along the Pennine Way towards the carpark.  Although I has successfully crossed the Wynch Bridge earlier that day, I still wasn't looking forward to the return crossing.  When we got there, I let the others cross and then gritting my teeth and looking straight ahead, not up or to the side and definitely not down, I slowly crossed river. 

It had been a delightful walk with spectacular scenery.  Thanks to Gary and Sheena for joining us and acting as guides.  The walk had taken about 3 and half hours with plenty of stops for photographs.

 

Route & Planning

Details and Route Map

Photo Opportunities

Walk Profile

The route map shown here should not be used as a replacement for the appropriate map(s). Before attempting the walk you should check the suitability of this route in relation to your capabilities and experience.