Walk Description

This was our third walk in the Teesdale area.  We planned to follow the Pennine Way to Grassholme Reservoir and then return to Middleton via the footpath along the old Tees Valley Railway.  Although the weather was fine at the start of the walk, the predicted snow enveloped us shortly after we left the summit of Harter Fell, thankfully it didn't last long.
 
After another sumptuous breakfast (smoked salmon and scrambled eggs - yummy!) we left the B & B and followed the main road towards Brough, as we crossed the river we could the snowy Harter Fell on the skyline.  To the left of Harter Fell was the prominent Kirkcarrion, which seemed to draw our eyes throughout the whole of today's walk.  Kirkcarrion is reputed to cover the tomb of a Brigantean prince called Caryn.  The site has a mysterious atmosphere and is supposed to be haunted.  An urn of charred bones was found when Kirkcarrion was excavated in 1804.
   
We joined the Pennine Way and followed it up the moor towards Harter Fell, when we turned round we were treated with a wonderful view across Middleton to the snow covered Monk's Moor.  When we stopped to take some more photographs of Kirkcarrion we were joined by a couple who had been walking behind us.  We continued along the Pennine Way together.  It turned out that they were staying next door to us in Middelton.  We parted just before the pin gate, as we were going up to the summit of Harter Fell and they were going to walk to Holwick, however we agreed to meet up for drinks before dinner that evening.  

We now headed almost directly north following the wall up to the summit of Harter Fell. The snow had drifted up to the wall and Steve enjoyed crunching his way across it.  When we reached the trig point, with its good views of lower Teesdale, we could see the heavy dark cloud building up in the south west and so we decided not to linger there.  The snow had covered any faint sheep trods off Harter Fell and so we decided to make our own way towards a small clump of interestingly shaped trees just above the Pennine Way.  The steep sided slope was covered with thick snow and Steve decided that he would bum-sledge down the steepest bits.  I followed in a more sedate manner and carefully picked my way down.  As we picked up the Pennine Way again and made quick progress towards Wythes Farm it started to snow, just a few small flakes at a time.   However, when we reached the farm track down to the B6276 a blizzard engulfed us, we decided against trying to find the Pennine Way as it meandered through some fields and stayed on the track.

As we walked down the track, the snow got heavier and heavier and we could see the poor sheep looking half frozen on the hillside.  By the time we reached the road, the snow had almost stopped.  It was just as well because the path through the fields on the other side of the road was difficult to follow in places, but by the time we reached Grassholme, the sun was out.  We crossed the five arched bridge and looked for the start of the footpath along the south side of the reservoir.  Here we encountered what could have been a serious problem, a sign proclaimed that the paths along both sides of the reservoir were closed, but it didn't offer a diversion.  We decided that we would still walk along the path.  It was fine apart from a couple of very muddy sections, which had a few strategically placed stepping stones and so apart from getting a little dirty we reached the Visitors' Centre without any problems.  By this time I felt ready for a hot drink and a bite to eat, but as seemed the case with the other Vistors' Centres in Teesdale, it was closed.

We then walked up the road towards Mickleton, where we climbed down to the bridleway that follows the old Tees Valley Railway line.  The sign said that it was 1 and three quarter miles back to Middleton.  I was glad that the path was level as I didn't feel that I could have coped with any ascents. The walks from the previous days' were catching up with me as I haven't done this much walking for a couple of years.  Eventually we left the old railway line and walked along the river back to Middleton.  I was really glad to be back at the B & B; I couldn't wait to have a hot bath and rest my weary legs. 
We stayed at Brunswick House, which is a charming stone built Teesdale village guest house, dating from 1760 that provides luxury bed and breakfast accommodation, a generous breakfast and delicious evening meals.  It has provided overnight accommodation to many a weary Pennine Way walker, including Wainwright and Tom Stephenson (who devised the Pennine Way).
Thanks to Steve once again for his company and planning the walk.  Thanks also to our neighbours for their company on a short section of the Pennine Way but most of all for the wonderufl gin and tonics that we shared that evening before dinner.
 

Route & Planning

Details and Route Map

Photo Opportunities

Walk Profile

The route map shown here should not be used as a replacement for the appropriate map(s). Before attempting the walk you should check the suitability of this route in relation to your capabilities and experience.